In short: suede shoe care means preventing three kinds of damage: matted nap, water stains and fading.
Suede is the material we receive most in the damaged-by-wrong-care group. It is no less durable than regular leather; it just gets damaged in different ways, and almost every habit for caring for smooth leather shoes is wrong when applied to suede.
Suede is just one of the eight material groups we handle; see them all on our shoe cleaning service.
The first thing to remember: suede is cleaned with dry friction, not water. Everything in this article follows from that principle.
Three types of damage, three different ways to prevent them
Type 1: matted nap
The velvety surface flattens into shiny patches, usually at the toe and on both sides where they rub together. It is caused by friction plus oils from hands and dust pressed in over time.
Prevent it by brushing. Every few wears, give them a brush with a suede brush, in one direction to lift the nap. It takes a minute and keeps the nap looking good for much longer.
Type 2: water stains
Dark marks with a clear outline that appear after getting wet and drying. Suede absorbs water unevenly, so wet areas turn darker and keep the mark once dry.
Prevent it with a water repellent spray. Spray a thin coat on new shoes and reapply after every few cleans. Spray outdoors or somewhere airy, from a distance and evenly, without letting it pool into drops.
Type 3: fading
The colour gradually lightens, usually most noticeably at the toe and heel. Caused by light, friction and earlier hard scrubbing.
Prevent it by storing properly. Avoid leaving shoes in direct light for long periods, and never scrub hard to remove dirt.
What to do every week
- Give them a brush with a suede brush, in one direction from heel to toe.
- For dry dirt, use a suede eraser on the spot, gently, then brush again.
- Stuff them with white paper when storing to keep the shape.
- Store them somewhere airy, not wrapped in plastic, not shoved at the bottom of a closed cupboard.
Just these four things, and they replace most of the need for deep cleaning.
When your shoes get caught in the rain
This is the moment that decides whether the shoes stay nice, and it is also when many people get it wrong.
- Do not wipe them while wet. Wiping wet mats the nap and spreads the marks.
- Blot gently with a dry cloth, just press down, do not rub.
- Stuff white paper inside to draw moisture out from the inside and keep the shape.
- Let them dry naturally somewhere airy. No sun, no hair dryer, no heater.
- Only brush once completely dry to lift the nap again.
A faint mark remaining after following these steps is normal, and it will fade with a few more brushings. If it is still obvious, that is when it needs treatment at a shop, and the good news is that water stains treated early are much easier than ones left for months.
Things you must never use
- Soapy water. Mats the nap into patches and leaves dark rings at the edge of the water mark.
- Shoe polish, leather conditioner. Seals the nap and cannot be removed.
- Washing machine. The nap comes out completely flattened and almost impossible to restore.
- Stiff-bristled brushes. Break the nap fibres, leaving bald patches.
- Alcohol, bleach. The colour disappears right where it touches.
When to bring them to the shop
- Grease or oil stains. Oil soaks into the nap fibres and needs professional solvent, not scrubbing.
- Clear water stains that do not fade after brushing.
- Nap matted into shiny patches over a large area.
- Obvious fading, needing dye restoration in the right shade.
- Mould. Suede goes mouldy very quickly in the rainy season, and the spores sit deep in the nap.
See our shoe cleaning pricing for suede services, or see the before and after photos. Suede bags follow the same principles, with details in our article on cleaning leather bags at home.
Have suede shoes with a mark and not sure it can be treated? Take photos and book online. The longer this kind of thing is left the harder it gets, so asking early always pays off.
Frequently asked questions
Suede shoes caught in the rain: what first?
Blot them dry with a clean cloth, pack them with white paper to hold the shape and let them dry naturally somewhere airy. Never use heat and never dry them in the sun, or the suede stiffens and blotches.
Is a waterproofing spray worth it on suede?
It slows water and dirt soaking in, but it is not a shield. Test it in a hidden spot first, as some sprays darken the leather.
Can matted, dull suede be brought back?
Light matting brushes back up to an even nap. Matting from oil, or nap that has been rubbed shiny, needs deep cleaning at 150,000d; see shoe cleaning.
What about mould on suede?
Surface mould can be treated; mould that has gone deep needs the nap restored, an item priced 500,000d – 750,000d. See mouldy shoes.